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Everybody has found Comporta by now. The remarkable thing is that you can't tell from the road. The drive explains most of it. You leave Lisbon, cross the Sado, and within an hour you're moving through kilometres of umbrella pine, orange sand tracks and flooded rice paddies with almost nothing built in sight. Storks stand on poles by the roadside. The turning for the beach … [Read more...] about Why Comporta Still Feels Empty: The Rice Estate Behind Portugal’s Most Coveted Beaches

I do my year in review in August. Nobody asked me to, and the calendar disagrees, but by August the folders are heavy enough to tell the truth and December is too close to the eggnog for honest work. That picture up there is Lyon on a warm night. Fourvière burning gold on the hill, Saint-Jean glowing underneath it, the Saône doing that thing where it turns every lamp into … [Read more...] about Travel in 2026: Five Photos That Explain the Year’s Real Trends

The trade press has already reduced tiny tourism to a number of nights. Average trip length is falling, one-night hotel stays are up, and the easy conclusion is that people are just taking shorter holidays because money is tight. That is a real pattern and it is a different pattern. Tiny tourism is about the size of the place and the size of the ambition, not the size of the … [Read more...] about Tiny Tourism: Why Travellers Are Choosing Towns Nobody Photographs

I've spent a lot of evenings standing on street corners in other people's cities waiting for the light to do something interesting, and a fair number of those evenings have been interrupted by a red double-decker sliding into the frame. I've thought all the things you're supposed to think about those buses. The recorded commentary in nine languages that manages to say nothing … [Read more...] about In Defence of the Hop-On Hop-Off Bus

Taormina sits on a cliff. The beaches do not. That single fact shapes everything about a beach day here, because the town you booked and the water you came for are separated by about 200 meters of vertical drop and a road that switchbacks down the hillside like it was designed to punish people carrying towels. The picture above is Mazzarò bay on a June evening. Blue … [Read more...] about Taormina Beach Guide: Mazzarò, Isola Bella, and What Nobody Tells You About the Pebbles

The queue is not for the house. Nobody comes for the house. They come for a courtyard about the size of a generous parking space, a stone balcony bolted to one wall, and a bronze girl standing under a fig tree with one breast polished to a mirror shine. I went in July, late morning, which was a mistake and also the only honest way to see the place. Verona at that hour is … [Read more...] about Juliet’s Balcony in Verona Was Added in the 1930s and the Crowds Do Not Care

You come in off the piazza, where the light bounces off pale stone and water and hits you from every angle, and for the first thirty seconds inside St Mark's you can barely see anything at all. The basilica is dark. Then your pupils widen and the ceiling arrives — not all at once, but in patches, a gilded arch here, a haloed figure there, until the whole upper half of the … [Read more...] about St Mark’s Basilica in Venice: The Gold Mosaics Are Dimmer Than the Photographs Suggest

There's a particular kind of exhaustion that sets in around the fourth château of a Dordogne road trip, and it doesn't discriminate by age. Ask any parent who has dragged children through the region's stone-walled wine estates: somewhere between the second turret and the third gift shop, enthusiasm collapses into a kid folded up on a low wall, knees to chest, waiting out the … [Read more...] about Château de Monbazillac, Dordogne: A difficult childhood. One château too many.