On the morning of November 2, children in Palermo get up early and search the house. Presents have appeared overnight, under the bed or behind a door, and the family knows exactly who left them: the dead. Usually a grandparent. It's All Souls' Day, the Festa dei Morti, and Palermo has spent centuries turning it into a day for children. Visitors mostly meet the feast through … [Read more...] about Festa dei Morti in Palermo, When the Dead Bring the Presents and Pastry Shops Fill With Sugar Dolls