Lisbon is a city that doesn’t just reveal itself—it tests you. Every slope, every hill, every sneaky little staircase that suddenly becomes an entire mountain is a reminder that you are either the kind of tourist who comes prepared, or the kind who gets caught in the swirl of the city and lets it take them wherever it pleases. And as I’ve come to realize, there are really only two types of tourists here: the planners and the blenders.
The photo shows a lively Lisbon street where the contrast between two species of tourists plays out in real time. In the foreground, clusters of visitors fill the cobblestone pavement, some pausing to look around with wide-eyed curiosity, others striding with hands on hips and phones out, scanning for the next stop. Above them, the city rises dramatically, a hillside quilt of pastel-colored houses with red-tiled roofs stacked tightly against the slope, almost daring the planners to march upward with their itineraries in hand. The street itself, lined with elegant stone facades and ornate black lanterns, seems to invite a slower pace, rewarding those who linger to notice the crooked balconies, the play of sunlight, or the faint hum of street music in the air. It’s a perfect stage where the tickers, checklist in mind, push through the crowd toward the next landmark, while the blenders, camera straps dangling loosely, drift as if they belong, soaking up details that will never make it into a guidebook but will live forever in memory.
The planners are the ones who woke up at six this morning to make sure they got the exact bus that Lonely Planet promised was the “hidden gem” route. They have the gait of soldiers on a campaign, except their battlefield is Baixa, and their weapons are laminated itineraries, prepaid skip-the-line tickets, and a self-righteous sense that they are Doing Lisbon Correctly™. You’ll spot them immediately: stopping dead in the middle of a narrow street to consult a spreadsheet color-coded by neighborhood, barking things like, “We only have seven minutes here, Marta, take the picture already!” They do not sweat; they glisten in the noble pursuit of the checklist. Their reward comes not in the moment, but in the triumphant strike of a pen against paper: another attraction conquered, another box ticked.
Then there are the blenders, my tribe. Our grand plan is no plan at all, unless you count “eat when hungry, sit when tired, follow the music when you hear it.” We drift like fallen leaves in a breeze, pushed by scents of roasted sardines, lured by the sound of a guitar played badly but passionately, distracted by the hypnotic geometry of a tiled wall. We are not here to collect Lisbon like a stamp in a passport; we are here to dissolve into it, to let its rhythm sneak into our bloodstream until our walking pace matches the city’s tram lines. We pretend we’re locals, of course—ordering bica at a café and nodding gravely at the headlines of the Portuguese newspaper we can’t read. Inevitably, we give ourselves away when we ask for a glass of tap water in faltering, mangled Portuguese and the waiter switches to perfect English with a look that says, “Nice try, amigo.”
The planners thrive on efficiency, the blenders on serendipity. Planners know exactly where the best miradouros are and arrive just in time for sunset, elbowing their way to the perfect photo spot. Blenders stumble upon a view entirely by accident, usually after getting lost, and end up loving it more because they didn’t know it was supposed to be important. Planners stride confidently down Rua Augusta, ready to face the Arco da Rua Augusta like a boss level in a video game. Blenders get distracted by the street performers along the way, spend half an hour listening to a man play accordion while dressed as a giant rooster, and only later realize they never actually made it to the arch at all.
My sympathies lie so heavily with the blenders that I sometimes wonder if I’ve developed a mild allergy to itineraries. I’ve tried the other way, honestly I have. I once printed out a list of “must-sees” in Lisbon, tucked it neatly into my pocket, and set out determined to tick things off like a proper grown-up traveler. By the third stop I’d abandoned it entirely, seduced by the smell of grilled chouriço wafting down an alleyway that led me nowhere near my planned route. The paper crumpled in my bag until I found it later, smeared with pastry flakes, serving as a makeshift napkin for a custard tart emergency. That was the end of my brief experiment as a planner.
The truth is, blending is a performance art that requires imagination. You have to walk with purpose but without knowing where you’re going. You have to look vaguely impatient while secretly having no schedule at all. You have to stare at a shop window as if considering a purchase, when really you’re just trying to catch your breath after yet another uphill slog. It’s all about the illusion: that if you adjust your sunglasses just so, if you mutter “pois” under your breath at the right time, if you hold your coffee cup like you’ve been doing it your whole life, you might—just might—fool someone into thinking you belong here. Until, of course, you trip on the cobblestones and reveal yourself as exactly what you are: a happy, hopeless tourist who would rather wander aimlessly than arrive anywhere on time.
Lisbon forgives both species. It welcomes the planners with their lines and lists, giving them the satisfaction of order in a city that loves chaos. And it embraces the blenders, tossing them unexpected treasures: a balcony dripping with bougainvillea, a tram that creaks like an old song, a street that curves into an entirely new adventure. Me, I’ll keep bumbling along with the blenders, camera strap dangling, shoes scuffed, itinerary long forgotten. Because when I look back, I don’t want a checklist of things I saw—I want a collection of accidents, coincidences, and small moments where I almost, almost passed for a local.
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