There’s something oddly charming about sitting up top on an open double-decker bus, wind brushing past your face as the city rolls by like a slow-moving movie reel. Lyon feels especially suited for this kind of lazy exploration. The rhythm of the ride gives you time to look around, not rush, and let the city’s layers reveal themselves. As the bus pulls away from the starting point — usually somewhere near Place Bellecour with its broad square and Louis XIV standing stiffly on his horse — the sense of the journey settles in. The first turns glide along elegant Haussmann-style facades that feel like a softer, warmer cousin of Paris, and you notice how Lyon sits between eras: medieval alleyways in Vieux Lyon on one side of the river, bold 20th-century geometry near Part-Dieu on the other. From the upper deck, you see it all without straining your neck or fumbling with maps.
Somewhere mid-route the bus crosses the Saône, and the view expands. The river moves slowly, reflecting ochre-tinted Renaissance buildings that stand stacked along the hillside, and even if you’ve seen postcard images, seeing it lived-in and real adds texture. You pass traboule entrances — those strange hidden passageways Lyon is famous for — and it’s tempting to hop off and wander, but staying onboard feels just as right. The audio guide murmurs little anecdotes, just enough to make you curious without overwhelming you. Every couple of blocks, something catches your eye: a bakery with golden pastries in the window, someone walking a dog with theatrical confidence, the shadows of Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière high above the skyline like a guardian watching over the city.
Eventually, as the bus climbs toward Fourvière hill, the city stretches out beneath you, red rooftops forming a warm puzzle of streets, plazas, secret courtyards, and river bends. The higher vantage point feels like the true reward of taking the bus instead of the metro or walking. You’re suspended between sky and city, not quite a local, not quite a tourist, just present. At the top, the basilica appears almost unexpectedly ornate, and between glimpses of its façade you spot the Roman amphitheater — a reminder that Lyon was once Lugdunum, capital of Roman Gaul. Funny how history sits next to the modern world without apology here.
When the route begins descending again, there’s a quiet satisfaction in simply watching the city at its normal pace: cyclists weaving politely but confidently through traffic, students leaning against stone walls talking too fast, waiters preparing terraces for the afternoon rush. By the time the bus returns to its starting point, you haven’t “done” Lyon — you’ve skimmed it, tasted a hint of it, and left room for the next step: stopping somewhere that pulled at your curiosity and seeing it up close.
A double-decker tour isn’t the deepest way to explore Lyon, sure, but it might be the best first chapter — a gentle, scenic orientation before you start walking, eating, and getting pleasantly lost.
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